Corfu
Oct 10th
Have had my first proper night's rest at sea, and got up fresh and hearty. Got on deck about six oclock. Weather calm and bright. Albanian mountains well in sight and island of Corfu coming into view from this time until reaching Corfu at 12 oclock. The view was delightful - on the left bold rugged mountains of Albania, with the morning light falling aslant and shewing up in relief every break and chasm, and, before us, Corfu and some smaller islands rising, sharpened, high from the water - the sea deep blue and broken in small crested waves. It was a delicious sight. Here we sighted a small denuded rock, looking in the distance exactly like a two masted ship with sails set: the likeness is perfect. The legend is that some fellow in the Trojan wars, who had gone contrary to the Gods, was on the journey in his ship and stuck fast here and petrified.
Corfu is beautiful for situation, and is hemmed in by two high fortresses now dismantled. When the English held it, this was said to be the most strongly fortified place in the world. Now all the works are dismantled and the strongest fort, a small island, entirely destroyed. We have to get ashore in boats, and pay out a franc each way - boatmen very noisy and clamorous until they get going - no tide, but a considerable swell generally as you approach the coast. On landing, our passports were wanted, but on saying we came ashore only for a stroll, we are allowed to pass without. Just after landing we are in the market place. It is crowded with people and profusely supplied with fruit - melons, figs, pomegranates, oranges, grapes and other fruit. We met a few Turks and Albanians with cotton ?tunics to their knees and leggings of ditto; but the greatest number are dressed in European costume. All appear pretty busy and active - tailors, shoemakers and barbers are largely represented. We did not see many of the fair sex, and the specimens that came under our notice were only passable. The old men look wrinkled and dried up and smell too much. The streets are narrow but not dirty - at least not more than our own.
Went up to the Citadel, a hill strongly fortified, and apparently impregnable. On the summit is a small lighthouse, up which we climbed, and were rewarded with the grandest view that I have seen - Guide Book says the finest in the world. We had been taking our fill of beautiful sights all day, and therefore we did not feel it so powerfully.
While ashore the wind had freshened, and the waves broke on the shore in sufficient force to make our embarkation a little exciting: and we got a nice tossing on our way to the steamer. I felt glad to get back, and dinner was very welcome. The feeding arrangements on board are very satisfactory, and on a par with any hotel I have yet stopped at.
Had some Chess with Weaver in the Lounge - two games to one. Had a conversation with an Italian, who speaks French and a little English and, with ... talk considerable about languages and derivations of words find my lack of French a great misfortune and feel that a little knowledge of language when travelling is not only useful but might be greatly improved. Have done a little chatter in German, and found that some consolation. In conversation with an old American gentleman of sceptical views, I find myself wanting in giving reasons for belief in the Bible other than its historical accuracy, the fulfillment of prophecy, its suitableness to man's nature and adaptability to his wants and aspirations. But on God permitting man to fall, or (as he put it) placing temptations in his way, and on the result of Adam's fall being entailed on all his race, I felt out! But we are poor weak creatures, and, as we are enabled to perceive the goodness and mercy of our Creator the marvel is that He has permitted to his rebellious creatures so much.
Went to bed about 10; but did not sleep until after we sailed, which was about 11.30 pm. Was wakened several times during the night by the rolling of the ship; but rested fairly.